Recent content by Madrab

Yes, as long as the hole in the wall for the power and water isn't in a really strange place. Given it's another MIRA then it should connect at least t one of the places that the multifit offers. Trick would be to look at the MI for both, it will show the sizes and locations

Take a flat file and file the sharp edge off of the ISO valve compression end, it's brass so it files easily - hold the file flat and then rub the ISO valve along the file to keep the end square - that then provides a flat surface on the valve end for the seal in the flexi to sit on without...

can you not just fit flooring so its all sized, just don't lock it down so it can be lifted when wet work is to happen? I wouldn't chance final fitting it till the pipework is above the floor level.

Yes, it's a pencil hand shower, that can be replaced by an typical handset. I picked up a link to amazon but there's loads and loads - don't forget too, you get what you pay for Rigid riser kit

You really want to get them as far back to the stack as possible, if not all the way back to the stack and then use plugs into the boss'/branch.

Going to a lower output will impact on the output of the shower, especially with that riser and rain shower head and especially in the winter. The multifit should go there easily enough but depending on how the tiling's been finished will determine what outline you are left with, if any.

Not sure if it was 14yrs ago ;)

Just buy a rigid riser rainshower kit (lots available online), fit it where the current handset riser rail is, use your current bar shower and just attach the flexi house

Not a full bore no - there are MDPE to copper wind down stop taps IIRC

If you want to get rid of the brass then probably need to use philmac/plasson copper transition coupler to take it from 20mm to 22mm then fit the valve

It would usually be a stop ring on the spindle for the thermostatic valve - probably need to take off the handle, remove the stop ring off the splines and refit onto the splines say a few splines to the left (anticlockwise). The other issue there could be is that the HW isn't hot enough, a lot...

There shouldn't be a reason not to - but I always ask myself, in these scenarios - why didn't they do that from factory, there has to be a reason they are supplied as 3/4" to 15mm and not straight to 22mm. A call to ST would hopefully clear that up.

You have a lot going on there and we obviously work a little differently to the US as far as specs and standards are concerned. We also work in metric to so conversion is a little convoluted. So 2" is 50mm in our spec - Macerators are nasty things too but if needs must, it that for a toilet...

That suffers from the same problem that your current electric shower does - that being the fact that the shower has to restrict the flow to allow it to heat the cold water up to the desired set temp, flow will still be very low, the level will be dependent on the rating of the shower and the...

Speedfit plastic type ISO's aren't full bore if this is the type you mean and the water is fed from a cistern Ideally you want full bore lever/ISO valves and cant say I've ever seen full bore pushfits