Hello
I had accidentally fused the chuck of my cheaper wickes store brand Bauker copy of a drill driver (I spilt super glue, plastic glue and melted the chuck) so you couldn’t open or tighten it at all. I had massive problems with getting the chuck of so I could put a new one on. I had to take the cases off the drill, get to the gear box (which I would love a full breakdown of the gear box).
The drill driver is CDT212W (it’s the exact same drill but uses different brands) and when I took the gearbox out, the springs for the torque settings fell out, I want to say there were 3, but I only found 1. I would like to have the torque setting ring stronger, so that if I am using it on something that vibrates a little, it likes to change the torque setting. So, the (I want to call it a leaf spring) that I am sure I am missing gets replaced (hopefully easy to get) the drill will work better.
I am unsure if this is related, as this happens all of the time, I replaced the chuck with this one from B&Q if it’s not changed in 2 years max. https://www.diy.com/departments/erbauer-3-8-keyless-chuck-cha72094/1474406_BQ.prd I am having problems with keeping the chuck locked, it seems to either vibrate loose or want tightened up enough when drilling something dense. I know my other drill, when it’s tightened, up, you can lock the chuck so it won’t undo by twisting the chuck extra it will then click and the chuck is locked.
The new chuck has or did not come with any instructions on how to use it.
Last thing, I have a drill press, it’s old, but it works beautifully, however I have 2 small problems, first is the power lead is far too short, can I rewire the main power lead? Second is the chuck, it’s a Jacob’s chuck, I am unsure if I need a Jacob’s key or would any key be okay, as the key that I have that “fits” it slips off the chuck, now I have no idea if I am not doing it correctly or the chuck key is the wrong angle or if the teeth on the chuck has been warn away?
I had accidentally fused the chuck of my cheaper wickes store brand Bauker copy of a drill driver (I spilt super glue, plastic glue and melted the chuck) so you couldn’t open or tighten it at all. I had massive problems with getting the chuck of so I could put a new one on. I had to take the cases off the drill, get to the gear box (which I would love a full breakdown of the gear box).
The drill driver is CDT212W (it’s the exact same drill but uses different brands) and when I took the gearbox out, the springs for the torque settings fell out, I want to say there were 3, but I only found 1. I would like to have the torque setting ring stronger, so that if I am using it on something that vibrates a little, it likes to change the torque setting. So, the (I want to call it a leaf spring) that I am sure I am missing gets replaced (hopefully easy to get) the drill will work better.
I am unsure if this is related, as this happens all of the time, I replaced the chuck with this one from B&Q if it’s not changed in 2 years max. https://www.diy.com/departments/erbauer-3-8-keyless-chuck-cha72094/1474406_BQ.prd I am having problems with keeping the chuck locked, it seems to either vibrate loose or want tightened up enough when drilling something dense. I know my other drill, when it’s tightened, up, you can lock the chuck so it won’t undo by twisting the chuck extra it will then click and the chuck is locked.
The new chuck has or did not come with any instructions on how to use it.
Last thing, I have a drill press, it’s old, but it works beautifully, however I have 2 small problems, first is the power lead is far too short, can I rewire the main power lead? Second is the chuck, it’s a Jacob’s chuck, I am unsure if I need a Jacob’s key or would any key be okay, as the key that I have that “fits” it slips off the chuck, now I have no idea if I am not doing it correctly or the chuck key is the wrong angle or if the teeth on the chuck has been warn away?
