How to disguise bare pipes in hallway?

[DaveWebb]

Some time ago i got new central heating installed by a guy who turned out to be a bodger. He punched the pipe work through my hallway rather than find a wall or cupboard to run it through. Anyway i now have this difficult situation (see photo) and I'm not willing to pull up my professionally sanded floor to reroute. Can anyone think of a clever way to make the visual impact in the hallway less? (likely to be a bodge on a bodge i know, but maybe better than nothing).

Thanks in advance,

Dave

 

[Danns]

Its going to be a bit of work, but looking at the other wonderful period features you have, I'd be going with, move pipes slightly further into corner and then cover with a curved/radius'd cover.

I did the same for both water main riser in one corner of my lounge and rad pipe drops in the adjacent corner.

Personally I wouldn't bother with square boxing, it will look terrible and stand out like a sore thumb.

Curved sections can be cut from square stock using a table saw/that's exactly how I did it. Off the shelf at these sort of sizes isn't really an option.

(very much mid progress shots here.. you can see the effect left and right)

 

[thomp1983]

Google talon pipe covers, you'd need to swap the pipe clips to talons clips to hold the cover but with the cover fitted you could paint it to match your decor.

 

[algas]

As in answer 1 square boxing will look out of place, see if you can find any decorative architrave or coving to match the period features

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

.

 

[johnny2007]

Do what @Danns said.
A bit of fuffing about, but well worth it.

 

[DaveWebb]

Thanks everyone, and Danns in particular - your corners look great and totally unnoticeable. I will check with my dad if he has the kit to cut the profiles out of something and then see about fitting. I think that should be possible. There is quite a lot of piping unfortunately (feed, return and gas i think).

 

[DaveWebb]

So i've measured up and i need a piece of 3m long 2x4". Unfortunately my local timber yard can only cut straight cuts. What are my options? If there is a tool i can hire can anyone out there spec it for me? Should i be ringing round other yards? Attached pic shows the new profile i need.

 

[Why Not Indeed]

If you could actually cut that proposed shape out of solid timber, I would think it's going to be very weak. I would look for PVC quadrant [or somehow cut some pipe into a quadrant section....good luck keeping that cut straight ]. I know the idea of it sounds horrible but by the time it's caulked in place and painted to match, nobody is going to know the difference. Detail around the skirting is going to be tricky as well!

 

[DaveWebb]

This is the best i can find. Maybe half it and combine with a piece of flat skirting?

https://www.travisperkins.co.uk/deepline-gutter-and-fittings/wavin-osma-deepline-gutter-113mm-black-4m-9t974b/p/857769

 

[Why Not Indeed]

https://www.toolstation.com/classic-coving-wt16/p80737 this is already the right shape and might even be the right dimensions. Not sure how you'd secure it though.

 

[DaveWebb]

Thanks - that's way better than anything i could fine. I'm sure i can figure out botching it all together

 

[Deleted member 174758]

https://www.toolstation.com/classic-coving-wt16/p80737 this is already the right shape and might even be the right dimensions. Not sure how you'd secure it though.

If the walls are flat enough coving adhesive maybe mixed with a bit of drywall compound will do the job. The coving will need to be pinned in place whilst the adhesive goes off - the pins are left sitting proud, removed afterwards and any holes/joints filled with wall filler and sanded out. This works for paper-wrapped plaster cornices at ceiling level, so going up a wall should be a lot easier

 

[DaveWebb]

 

[justigator]

Very nice if I may say so, though more squarish than rounded in profile. Now just get out your jigsaw/coping saw/router etc and cut some pieces of dado rail to continue across and beyond the new pipe covering, then cover the part below the dado with some more embossed wallpaper to match, then paint to match existing completely. That should take you a year or two. Don't want you getting bored.