Greenhouse base

[WalksWithTurkeys]

I have ordered a Halls Popular greenhouse 10 by 6 foot. I will place it on a low brick wall, two bricks high, supported by a 6” deep concrete footing, on what is currently lawn. My neighbour did likewise 20 years ago, and it’s fine.

A problem is that it will be alongside a thick concrete path. I will mark out the wall, and footing, using N shaped profile boards made from 1” thick wood. To mark out the ends, perpendicular to the path, I will have to place profile boards alongside and parallel to the path. (In case my terminology is wrong, here’s a link with a picture of a profile board: Click here.) I have two choices.

a) Move the greenhouse away from the path leaving some soil to hold the profile boards. This is not ideal as space is tight, with a hedge the other side of the greenhouse site.

b) Keep the footing close to the path, but use an F shaped profile board. Thus the pegs that go into the ground are in front of and behind the greenhouse, and not between the path and greenhouse, and the nails that hold the line are suspended over the footing trench. Is this okay? Is there a better method? Incidentally, I cann’t have profile boards on the opposite side of the path, as it is raised up relative to the lawn.

Does this make sense?

Secondly, is it realistic to mix the concrete by hand? I could buy a plastic tub, or a metal wheelbarrow. Oh and how do I calculate the number of bags of concrete I need? They don’t seem to have volume indicated.

Thirdly, could I use less concrete by using 2” or hardcore in the trench followed by 4” of concrete? The advantage is less work mixing concrete.

Lastly, I discounted the idea of using cement stabilised soil for the footing. I might use that for a path, but not for this project. Has anyone used cement stabilised soil? I suspect the problem is getting a thorough mixing of cement throughout the soil.

 

[noseall]

I have ordered a Halls Popular greenhouse 10 by 6 foot. I will place it on a low brick wall, two bricks high, supported by a 6” deep concrete footing, on what is currently lawn. My neighbour did likewise 20 years ago, and it’s fine.

A problem is that it will be alongside a thick concrete path. I will mark out the wall, and footing, using N shaped profile boards made from 1” thick wood. To mark out the ends, perpendicular to the path, I will have to place profile boards alongside and parallel to the path. (In case my terminology is wrong, here’s a link with a picture of a profile board: Click here.) I have two choices.

a) Move the greenhouse away from the path leaving some soil to hold the profile boards. This is not ideal as space is tight, with a hedge the other side of the greenhouse site.

b) Keep the footing close to the path, but use an F shaped profile board. Thus the pegs that go into the ground are in front of and behind the greenhouse, and not between the path and greenhouse, and the nails that hold the line are suspended over the footing trench. Is this okay? Is there a better method? Incidentally, I cann’t have profile boards on the opposite side of the path, as it is raised up relative to the lawn.

Does this make sense?

Secondly, is it realistic to mix the concrete by hand? I could buy a plastic tub, or a metal wheelbarrow. Oh and how do I calculate the number of bags of concrete I need? They don’t seem to have volume indicated.

Thirdly, could I use less concrete by using 2” or hardcore in the trench followed by 4” of concrete? The advantage is less work mixing concrete.

Lastly, I discounted the idea of using cement stabilised soil for the footing. I might use that for a path, but not for this project. Has anyone used cement stabilised soil? I suspect the problem is getting a thorough mixing of cement throughout the soil.

Make yourself a true, 10' x 6' squared up (diagonal bracing etc) template out of roof batten. Place it where ever is best and spray around your template with line spray and get digging.
Peg the trench out with some off cuts of batten and get pouring. Whilst the concrete is still green, mark out your brickwork with your template.

Get busy with the trowel.

Hire a Belle.

You'll need about 1/2 tonne of ballast and four x 25kg bags of cement.

Woody will help with the digging and bricklaying. I've done all the design, just buy me a pint.

 

[WalksWithTurkeys]

Thanks. I will hire a mixer.

I bought a 2.4 meter length of planed wood and surprisingly it was flat along one side. Unfortunately I cannot get longer pieces in the car. I need the wall to be square to a few mm ! This will be fun …

Very kind of Woody to offer. Tea and biscuits will be provided. A pint of Perrier will be on its way to you.

 

[scbk]

If you put it on a low brick wall, you will have to step over it every time you go in and out, that would annoy me.

 

[noseall]

If you put it on a low brick wall, you will have to step over it every time you go in and out, that would annoy me.

Yes but ants won't be able to step over it, will they.

 

[Mottie]

I have ordered a Halls Popular greenhouse 10 by 6 foot. I will place it on a low brick wall, two bricks high, supported by a 6” deep concrete footing, on what is currently lawn.

I think that’s way OTT for a greenhouse. If you want a solid base, just use paving slabs. Some do that over the allotment. Some sit theirs on a single row of breeze blocks. Nobody has a 6” concrete base. Mine is just sat on a bed of gravel with a weed membrane underneath. Some just rest theirs directly on the soil and plant into the ground. Anyway, you need drainage in there. On hot days, everyone just chucks a bucket of water on the floor as it creates humidity in the greenhouse.

Here's mine going up.

If you put it on a low brick wall, you will have to step over it every time you go in and out, that would annoy me.

You have to step over something every time you go in and out anyway. I’m always tripping over mine!

 

[WalksWithTurkeys]

I think that’s way OTT for a greenhouse. If you want a solid base, just use paving slabs. Some do that over the allotment. Some sit theirs on a single row of breeze blocks. Nobody has a 6” concrete base. Mine is just sat on a bed of gravel with a weed membrane underneath. Some just rest theirs directly on the soil and plant into the ground. Anyway, you need drainage in there. On hot days, everyone just chucks a bucket of water on the floor as it creates humidity in the greenhouse.

Here's mine going up.

View attachment 340715

You have to step over something every time you go in and out anyway. I’m always tripping over mine!

Yours has the steel base which adds rigidity, mine doesn’t, I could get one, but it costs £120 i.e. the same as concrete plus mixer hire . And then there’s the cost of paving stones. My garden is sloping, about a 4” drop over 10 feet, so concrete will let me get a level, okay not really required. The brick wall will act as a raised bed to avoid planting directly in heavy clay. (The soil will improve with time as the compost sinks in.) I’m guessing you have a Halls popular too.

 

[WalksWithTurkeys]

If you put it on a low brick wall, you will have to step over it every time you go in and out, that would annoy me.

The brick wall will act as a raised bed with a path in the middle level with the top of the wall, so no need to step over it.

 

[WalksWithTurkeys]

Make yourself a true, 10' x 6' squared up (diagonal bracing etc) template out of roof batten. Place it where ever is best and spray around your template with line spray and get digging.
Peg the trench out with some off cuts of batten and get pouring. Whilst the concrete is still green, mark out your brickwork with your template.

It’s a good idea, square planed timber is a similar price, and the piece I picked up has a flat edge.

 

[scbk]

You have to step over something every time you go in and out anyway. I’m always tripping over mine!

My greenhouse has a low threshold, you could wheel a barrow in!