Recent content by DAZB

Your problem would be the fixing method as you would need a structure to fix the t & g to and nailing or screwing through the roof covering may give you problems. It is perfectly possible but just bear in mind you have to keep the waterproofing intact and that t & g laid on a pitch roof exposed...

I was under the impression it was similar to a gas meter unit door and was just a simple lever type, a photo would clear it up a bit for us all.

You could try a long flat screwdriver in there to see if it will rotate or shape a length of timber to match the opening and see if that works. You could even try undoing the bolts that hold the lock in place. They may just spin but worth a go.

It's all about control of the water and i never use more than a trickle. The electrics and motor are at the back of the machine and unless you are reckless with the hosepipe it works fine. I would add that i personally am happy to do it that way but if you have any doubts then think carefully...

Foam should do the job and i would move the wires out of harms way first and make the first burst of foam a good one so it gets to the rear wall and then back off a little to cover the rest but don't overload it too much as the weight could drag it in. It won't look pretty but it doesn't have to...

I have the same saw and all i do is trickle a hose pipe onto the blade while cutting. Does the same job and just a slow trickle is all it needs in most cases.

ok.... you may just need to drill a hole in the guard to fit this but easily done. Others are available if not the best for you...

This any good ? ...... https://www.amazon.co.uk/Evolution-Power-Tools-012-0010-Cutter/dp/B08PDLLVPV?th=1

Butt them up and the screws will pull into the studs and bead enough to be able to fill over easily. Take it steady and don't overtighten, just enough to get them flush is good.

There is no particular way and just fit the boards onto the studwork to form the corner and the angle bead can either be nailed or screwed on top.

You could do it that way or put the window in after reducing the opening. Don't forget insulation in the cavity.

Classic case of the number plate being worth far more than the car.

It would still benefit from doing properly with a defined channel from the right and the benching should be smooth strong mortar allowing any water to be directed into the drain and that looks like a badly thrown render.

The right hand channel which directed waste into the main run has been removed up to the chamber wall so now anything that comes down there will just splurge over the mortar and build up, a problem in the pipeline (pun intended) for sure.

Water will flow over it but it will also likely flow under it too and continue leaking out and potentially washing away any bedding or soil or whatever it is sat on and back in the day it was quite often just sand on soil. This may cause more problems down the line as you could have a collapse...