Durapost on brick wall. Any good?

[mrbg07546]

If you loose-lay sleepers or blocks, they will eventually be pushed over but you can dig them out and re-lay them.

It seems to me you need something heavy (not rigid) leaning against the earth bank to hold it back.

A concrete retaining wall, with a horizontal toe under the bank, would either at greater cost.

If you had a gappy wall, you could let earth push through it, and shovel it away.

A neighbour had a brick wall that kept being cracked and pushed over by a large tree. They rebuilt the wall with a gap round the tree and assembled the bricks loose laid like a drystone wall. It looks OK and they rebuild it occasionally. It is only a couple of feet tall. Another neighbour has a drystone wall made of broken paving slabs.

Amazing idea. The wall is about 215mm anybsuggests on products for these sleepers

 

[mrbg07546]

Then there’s a small issue of mounting the fence panels. If I ain’t allowed bollards on their side. Would a hit and miss panel work mounted on wall?

 

[JohnD]

It might not suit you, but I use concrete spurs in the ground, with wooden posts bolted to them but above ground level to avoid rot.

If they start to lean, you can make modest adjustments by loosening the bolts (I use stainless studding) and wedging either the top or bottom. You can attach a hanging basket on one side to give a load against the lean.

The post is naturally positioned outwards of the spur. It's possible to position it further by adding a spacer.

Both the spurs, and the wooden posts, are within my power to handle fairly easily. An 8ft concrete post is not.

I'm reconfiguring my fence to use decking boards, horizontally, between the wooden posts. If the boards each span three or more posts they spread loads from gusting winds much better than panels ( I am coastal). Mine are not hit and miss but you could do that. It would make them easy to climb over and for wind to pass through.

 

[mrbg07546]

It might not suit you, but I use concrete spurs in the ground, with wooden posts bolted to them but above ground level to avoid rot.

If they start to lean, you can make modest adjustments by loosening the bolts (I use stainless studding) and wedging either the top or bottom. You can attach a hanging basket on one side to give a load against the lean.

The post is naturally positioned outwards of the spur. It's possible to position it further by adding a spacer.

Both the spurs, and the wooden posts, are within my power to handle fairly easily. An 8ft concrete post is not.

I'm reconfiguring my fence to use decking boards, horizontally, between the wooden posts. If the boards each span three or more posts they spread loads from gusting winds much better than panels ( I am coastal). Mine are not hit and miss but you could do that. It would make them easy to climb over and for wind to pass through.

The neighbour has not allowed me to change the current wooden posts on his side with concrete due to size. This is how wood is at present. It’s kind of half in brick

 

[mrbg07546]

If you loose-lay sleepers or blocks, they will eventually be pushed over but you can dig them out and re-lay them.

It seems to me you need something heavy (not rigid) leaning against the earth bank to hold it back.

A concrete retaining wall, with a horizontal toe under the bank, would either at greater cost.

If you had a gappy wall, you could let earth push through it, and shovel it away.

A neighbour had a brick wall that kept being cracked and pushed over by a large tree. They rebuilt the wall with a gap round the tree and assembled the bricks loose laid like a drystone wall. It looks OK and they rebuild it occasionally. It is only a couple of feet tall. Another neighbour has a drystone wall made of broken paving slabs.

https://www.daviestimber.co.uk/products/green-treated-softwood-sleeper-240mm-x-120mm Would this work if I stand it up on the 120mm side?

 

[JohnD]

it's usual to lay them flat so they can't fall over