Recent content by Ragnar_AT

Modern European Edison sockets no longer have a permanently connected screw shell, the thread part that holds the lamp in place is insulated, either plastic or ceramic. That means as soon as you unscrew the lamp a little, the thread no longer touches the spring connecting it to the supply...

And yes, the relay simply replaces the dimmer module. Getting everything to fit into the back box might be a bit tricky though.

New alkaline AA batteries are closer to 1.8 V (open circuit) in my experience, some even 1.9 V.

The easiest way of dealing with this seems to be downgrading the MCB to a B20, treating the whole circuit like one radial. That should provide plenty of power for a few bedroom sockets and one UFH mat.

You could replace the dimmer with a latching relay that can handle the fan. That needs a neutral, unlike the dimmer, but Spanish wiring should be singles in conduit so you should be able to pull a neutral from the nearest junction box. Brown from the dimmer goes to the input of the latching...

Exactly. There‘s got to be a junction box somewhere. I‘d be tempted to rewire the whole lot because it looks suspiciously like a DIY bodge job.

A lighting circuit should be protected by a 6 A or 10 A MCB or a 5 A fuse. The cables used for lighting circuits are good for much more than that (17 A if 1 mm2 if I remember correctly). Why do you think one cable shouldn‘t supply two lights then? The fuse or MCB limit the current long before...

Use Wago 2273 series for solid conductors rather than 221, they‘re slightly smaller. Using 3-way connectors and short bits of wire as mentioned before. That should fit into your back box.

That‘s not entirely correct. An earth fault can be L - E or N - E. An L-E fault is disconnected if you switch the MCB off or pull the fuse, an N-E fault isn‘t because the MCB doesn‘t disconnect the neutral.

Here‘s how I interpret the pictures and what I thin would be the easiest way to do what you want. 1) The first picture shows the flex and push-in connector of the Ikea light, correct? 2) If that‘s the case, I‘d take pictures of the current wiring, disconnect the flex from the pendant currently...

32 A is the maximum current, yes these are perfectly adequate. However, the ones pictured (Wago 222) are quite bulky compared to the more recent 221 connectors. The electrical ratings are identical, it’s just the physical size. 222s haven‘t been manufactured for several years so they might...

The limiting factor in this case is most likely the B6 MCB in the consumer unit rather than the cable. You don’t want to plug a hoover or circular saw into that socket but all the gear you mentioned is perfectly fine.

Looks like lever connectors made by Electro Terminal to me, two terminals per connector, i.e. you need larger or additional ones to accommodate all your wires.

Sounds fine, even though some pedants don‘t like sockets on lighting circuits. If it’s a new-ish install the socket should be RCD protected but so should the lights.

1P+N MCBs are a thing but extremely uncommon in the UK. These switch the neutral but do not monitor for overcurrent. They‘re often used in countries that traditionally had TT supplies with poorly earthed neutrals.