Recent content by oldbutnotdead

Ignoring any questions about the supply to that socket...If the cable from the FCU to the plug is 3 core flex, at least 1.5mm, properly glanded from the FCU then yes it is OK. Undesirable though (every connection is a potential failure point and there are redundant connections in that setup).

Those O ring inserts are a real nuisance if you are putting temporary pipework in for any reason - when you remove the pipe from a (Speedfit) fitting the insert tends to stay in the fitting and is a pain to extract

That sketch plan you linked to does not show daisy-chain, it shows the lampholders wired in parallel, which would be correct for 240v lamps (and 2A is plenty for each individual lamp). If you are planning on using 240v lamps make sure all that metalwork is correctly earthed. If you don't...

Unless they've changed, the FENSA regs don't cover the installation, just the frame and glass. All BCO did on doors and windows i put in (as part of a larger scheme) was used a magic box to check the glass was the right way round (coated side outside to get the rated U value).

Short answer- yes it can. You can get green/yellow sleeving for the bare copper cpc. Also worth checking it is actually connected to earth.

Well that all looks a bit rough. Presumably your house is on the left? Questions for the neighbour- why has their new gutter been extended over the boundary as well as the bargeboard cladding? That break in the gutter will inevitably lead to water dripping down the wall, green staining etc. The...

If its been done properly, time. If whoever did it cocked up on catalyst or didn't mix the resin or topcoat properly or used old out of date resin/topcoat then a lot of time. Sunlight helps the stuff cure. How do you air a roof anyway?

None of our business. Maybe wanting to see where the slugs get in or if next doors' cat is sneaking in and eating all the food (both reasons I've set up kitchen cameras for)

No you have no chance of claiming anything from the builder for reasons above. If you have a traditional loft, check what depth insulation you have- if it is old and knackered then replace to 300mm depth, if its new and less than 300 then top up. Yes it could be an issue if you sell up (that...

Don't go anywhere near that PSU, it is 24v and probably not that stable (given it is designed for lighting). Easiest (assuming there's an earth in that JB) will be buy a 1 gang 13A USB socket and backbox, give it power from that JB and off you go. Or a standard 1g socket with a USB adaptor...

First question- what does the outside wall look like above the window hole? Typically there'll be a brick arch of some sort which supports the brickwork above the window, pic will help Second Q- grab a screwdriver and stab your internal timber lintels. If the screwdriver sinks in you'd be wise...

That's the bottom of the head fallen to bits isn't it? (Rather than the valve body). Agreed a year isn't really acceptable, 7 years is only tolerable. I've been using Toolstation 'contractor' valves with Drayton Wiser heads- been in 8 years now, no problems. The TS heads look quite robust, you...

Angle grinder with a diamond disc (tile or brick cutting) works well on plastic- bit noisy but no chips cos the cut gets warm. Enjoy :)

You can group multiple Wiser TRVs into one 'room' if you want to (I have 2 rads in the sitting room set this way). Or as mentioned keep the TRVs in separate 'rooms' and just use a common schedule on them.

Have a think about insulation (if any of the walls are outside walls). You can tile direct to brick or block. If you are boarding out you'd ideally use cement or marmox or something not plasterboard for the 'wet' walls (shower end and side of the bath)