Recent content by oldbuffer

1. Make sure both pump valves are fully open. If either spindle just turns without ever stopping it suggest that spindle is broken, probably with the valve closed. 2. Make sure both motorised valves are open. Don't forget that, when manually latched open, turning the system on is likely to...

1. I'm afraid I can't help with pointing to which PCB it is. 2. However, if you look at Adlink, they do reconditioned Gledhill PCBs at reasonable prices. 3. I'm not sure a mainstream outfit like British Gas in necessarily the best place to find expertise on what is a relatively uncommon system...

Bailey

Perhaps two possibilities worth considering: 1. As Madrab has suggested, loose / inadequate wiring causing arcing and overheat. The cable from the wall outlet to a 3 kW immersion heater should be 3 core, 2.5mm squared, heat resistant, flexible cable. 2. Limescale build up in the base of the...

1. Click clack wastes, in my experience, rarely work for more than a year or two. 2. If you are really lucky, you might be able to unscrew the fitting from inside the basin. This will be relatively thin, probably chrome plated, metal with five or six holes in it. Normally this is held in place...

If you have a tank fed system for the hot (cold almost certainly mains) turning off the stopcock will not turn off the hot water. To turn off the hot you would need to close the valve (if any) feeding cold water into the very base of the hot water cylinder.

1. Central heating systems without a feed and expansion (F&E) tank but with an expansion vessel are called sealed heating systems rather than unvented heating systems. 2. Hot water systems without a vent (generally over the cold water storage cistern CWSC)) are called unvented hot water (DHW =...

Depends on how much they are used, how they are heated, heat recovery time.

An update to my previous post. Armeg "jaw droppers" do not have a spanner to fit the spout's back nut so not suitable for that part of the job.

1. As its coloured white, that is probably the expansion vessel for an unvented cylinder, not for the boiler. 2. If for an unvented cylinder, there should be a tun dish near the hot water cylinder through which any drips should be visible. 3. If the drip is coming from a copper fitting outside...

1. That's what is known as a three hole tap. I find them difficult to work on. 2. Unless you are a pretty experienced DIYer and have a good set of tools, I'd recommend getting a plumber to do it. 3. If you intend to DIY it you are likely to have to do a fair bit of dismantling to get at...

1. Not all cisterns are fitted with bolts through the base passing through the back of the bowl. 2. The alternative is a metal plate. This is oval shaped, has a large hole in the centre for the pipe and a slot in each of the "wings" of the oval. 3. These have square shanked bolts. You fit the...

Where is the water dripping from? Photo of drip and of boiler filling loop would be useful.

1. If that tape measure in your picture shows the length of the existing radiator, it is 4' 2 1/4" long, not 5' 2". Equivalent to 1,276 mm. If you got a 1200 wide, you would need to "make up" 76 mm. One 1" and one 2" extension = 76.2 mm, so should do the job. Not symmetrical but you might be...

1. There are two valves with blue handles. 2. The one closest to the yellow handled (gas) valve is the one I refer to as the inner. 3. These valves are normally: 3.1 Off (closed) when the handle is at right angles to the long body of the valve. 3.2 On (open) when the handle is parallel with the...