Recent content by noobiediyer

May have been said in jest but yes that's exactly how I feel. Great way on how to alienate users seeking help. Doesn't matter now anyway, I'm seeking help from a more helpful forum site. /Unwatch

Thanks for the valuable lesson everyone: if you need helpful and non-judgemental advice, diynot.com is not the place to post.

For the second time, there is nothing wrong with the blind. I want to fit a contininous bead chain without it having a join. I can fit it to the existing clutch mechanism if I can get access to the cog, but I can't figure it out hence this post.

Sadly not, it interferes with the cog wheel so doesn't work.

I'm well aware of the choking hazard to children on blind cords but I don't feel the need to justify why this isn't an issue in my setup. It's a bit pointless you bothering to post if you're not going to be helpful. Would you rather save your time by just not bothering to post at all. I'll...

I'll try to be careful not to choke on it then :LOL: It'd be nice if people are able to help without judgy comments like: "What's wrong with the blind?" "Why are you attempting such a pointless task?" If there is anyone who can help without judgement then that would be very much appreciated...

Nothing's wrong with the blind, it's perfectly fine. I just want to fit a continuous bead chain instead.

I wish to replace the chain in my 38mm blind roller for a continous chain type. I've taken off the clutch/mechanism on the side but I cannot figure out how to do it. It should be as easy as this YouTube video shows but the two prongs that the video shows can be pinched, on my one it does not...

A 1m length of stainless steel box 20mm x 20mm x 1.5mm thick costs £12. If I need two of these per shelf then that's £24 per shelf. I have 8 shelves so that's £192. I'd say that's quite expensive. Versus, Wickes CLS timber 38x63 for a £3.70 per 2.4m length. That would cost in total £29.60.

Wow. Sexist much?

I have a wet UFH system that's connected to a Heatmiser UH8 wiring centre. This is connected to a Heatmiser NeoHub (gen 2 I believe) and a few wireless Heatmiser thermostats. The main issue for me is that sometimes the UFH comes on despite the app/stats not explicitly calling for heat. I find...

Wow, the square steel tubes seem like a neat idea but feels like it might be overkill. What I'm loading on the shelf is heavy enough to worry about long term shelf warping but feels like cheap timber would be more than sufficient. It would be far cheaper and easier to drill.

Does that just waterproof the grout or do something else?

So far, I've tried two different types of epoxy grout (Mapie and Kerakoll) both of which I was informed are considerably better than cement based grout. Firstly, they don't hold on to dirt and grime as much, and are far easy to clean when you needed. My experience of these both are not as good...

I need a solution that doesn't create a vertical barrier. Will my horizontal support idea work? Is there any other idea which would be better that would support the shelf horizontally?