Recent content by aesmith

Unfortunately our Lidl never ever has and sort of welding gear.

Turns out it's not dead. I had already ordered a battery holder before I decided it was a lost cause. So once the holder turned up I fitted it, for the sake of five minutes soldering. And it works. To start with the same sort of misbehaviour, for example darkening when looking near the...

I think it's goosed. Wiring in a new battery looked hopeful at first, but it still flickered and now doesn't work at all.

Thanks. Budget coukd poss8bly be stretched. Can that model take a magnifier? Looking around it seems like the helmets with larger viewing area can't.

Hi, I'm looking for an auto welding mask, to replace my existing Esab "Warrior" that has now died. That cost £60 +VAT in 2014 so my thinking is that for the same sort of money i should be able to get something better ("true colour" for example). Any recommendations? It would need to have...

You'd need to meter everything in both directions. You don't get billed on the net amount, even within on 1/2 slot if you export say 1kWh in the first half, and import 1kWh in the second half then these would each be billed and credited. Not cancelled out.

In terms of the OPs metering arrangements, I don't see how anything else could be done automatically. That would require his meter to charge a reduced rate if the electricity consumed would otherwise have been exported. One possible compromise might be to apply a discount for days where he...

Octopus offers 15p flat rate, but only if you are with them for import. I believe it's credited month by month.

Tuna as well.

Just out of interest what's your export unit rate? Question to both the OP and to ericmark i guess.

Depends on the relationship, agreement or contract. If everything's metered it's not free electricity as it's reduced your export payments by 5kWh.

A counter current heat exchanger can do a lot better than that. Whether domestic appliances are that sophisticated is another question.

The old wiring in our garage/workshop used twin with no earth, plus various single core sheathed cables to provide enough cores. Earthing for the metal switches was provided by a fly lead from the adjacent power point. Where I retained two way switching I replaced the drop cables with three...

That's exactly what I meant. And regarding terminal blocks for N, grabbed from another site. And I think if feed and light were connected to the same switch, you'd still need one block to connect N ..

Don't they both need at least one connector block for Neutral? I've seen a third method when the supply comes to the light fitting, with 3 core + earth down to each switch.